Random Pics selected from the Image Gallery - Nor Siglar 9 Years on The 7 Seas - "A Pictorial Tour" Frequently Asked Questions

1: How does it feel to be back on solid ground after all these years?       How does it feel now that the adventure is over?   2: How does one readjust to life on land after such a long adventure?   3: Did the circumnavigation live up to your expectations? Did you get any surprises?   4: How is it possible to live so close together all the time? Did you quarrel a lot?   5: What about equality onboard?   6: Do you find that we in the Western civilization have "lost" something that others have retained?   7: In what way has this adventure affected you?       Are you the same persons now as when you started out? What have you learned?   8: How could you stand being cooped up on a small sailboat during long passages?       Did you get impatient? Restless?       What did you do with yourselves all that time?   9: Did you miss anything from home? 10: What was the most dangerous experience you had?       Were you ever scared? 11: What are the procedures when you arrive in a new country? 12: How does one make contact with locals in a new place?       Didn't you feel like imperialists when you came ashore,       seeking contact with natives in the old island colonies? 13: How do you get information about new ports of call/anchorages? 14: What about money? How did you handle it in the different countries? 15: Which languages did you use the most? 16: What did you eat? How did you provision in foreign ports?       What about water? Rationing? 17: How did you know what to have onboard all the time? 18: What about security onboard? Did you carry any weapons? 19: How did you keep in shape? 20: What did you find most irritating? Any drawbacks? 21: Did any cruisers have problems adjusting to their "newfound freedom"/lifestyle? 22: What is the age limit for offshore sailors? 23: Anything you would have done differently? 24: What is most important in the beginning? Did you make many mistakes? 25: What advice do you have for the "dreamers"? 26: How to persuade the wife to go offshore? 27: Did you sail most of the time or did you have to use the engine a lot?       How often did you anchor out as opposed to staying at a dock? How much electricity did you use? 28: Did you have the boat "on the hard" many times during the circumnavigation? 29: Did you have any other long layovers? Why? 30: Did you experience any anchoring problems? 31: What kind of log book did you keep: 32: Did you have any storms? How high were the highest waves you ever experienced?       How did you know where it was safe to be during the various seasons? 33: Where did you experience the best sailing conditions? 34: Which were your longest ocean crossings? How long did they take? 35: What do you consider to be the "highs" of the voyage? 36: What can be described as the "lows" of the voyage? 37: Did you ever experience any real dangers? 38: Do you have any favourite places? 39: Any places you did not like? 40: Where did you find the nicest, most memorable ports of call/anchorages? 41: In which countries did you stay the longest: 42: Were you well enough prepared for such a long voyage? 43: How did you keep in touch with the family and friends at home?       What about mail? How about phone calls and e-mail?       Did you have Single Side Band (short wave radio) onboard? 44: What about your health? Were you ever seriously ill? 45: Are there any problems at all in Paradise? 46: What did it cost? 47: What about insurance? How did you insure your boat and yourself? 48: What kind of books did you have onboard?

(1) How does it feel to be back on solid ground after all these years? How does it feel now that the adventure is over?

Actually, it doesn't feel like it is over! As long as we live in Vancouver during the winter and in Norway onboard NOR SIGLAR during the summer, it still feels as though we are "underway" somehow. This is the lifestyle we have been accustomed to for the last nine years. We left the boat several times during the circumnavigation to go home to look after our duties and replenish the "cruising kitty". The fact that it is actually over has still not hit us.
Last winter we sorted and catalogued more than 5000 slides, and did several slideshows. That way, we relived the entire circumnavigation, and it felt as if we were still in the middle of it all, somehow. Now I am writing a book, so as far as I am concerned, I am not about to let go of the adventure quite yet. Perhaps never!
Martin, on the other hand, has let go of it completely. He is heading, full speed, into a new lifestyle. This fall he turned 70, but is as full of energy and new ideas now as ever before. He is looking far into the future with great spirits and has all sorts of plans for new projects. At present, he concentrates completely on forestry. Also, he is prioritizing lots of "R & R", i.e. Rest and Relaxation, and not "M & R", i.e. Maintenance and Repair! He really got tired of all that during the nine years on NOR SIGLAR. Now he is ready for something new and different, new challenges. The time is right for that. A change in lifestyle actually feels just right for both of us now, and we look forward to a life ashore with more routine and comfort.

(2) How does one readjust to life on land after such a long adventure?

The most difficult adjustment to make after so many years of "freedom" is to get used to all the red tape and bureaucracy. All the rules and restrictions in everyday life nearly took our breath away. A very high standard of living, accompanied by sky-high costs, was a shock for us who have been accustomed to bargaining and trading for such a long time. Not to mention the traffic! We were actually afraid to get behind the wheel again after all those years. We felt safer on the ocean than on Highway 401. It also took time to get used to being surrounded by so many people. All the attention and social activities, even being ever so very pleasant, became a tremendous change from the peaceful harbours and stillness out there. We were overwhelmed and tired easily.
We were also surprised at how much we had missed in terms of news, at home as well as around the world. At sea, we did not keep up to date as well as we would have ashore. The upside of that though, is that today, we have a much better understanding of what is going on, especially in the troubled parts of the world, now that we have been to so many of these places. Having friends in such countries makes it easier for us to identify ourselves with their problems. The news becomes much more relevant, much more alive.
One of the first things we reacted to was the speed with which the information technology has developed. There are lots of new things to learn. Although we had learned to use e-mail while we were away, Internet, online banking, all the new radio stations, cable TV with complicated remote controls - all this was new and very confusing for us! It has not been easy to adjust to all these changes, but it has turned out OK in the end. With the help of a good friend, we have even managed to create our own website! ( www.norsiglar.com)

Since we have been used to spending 24 hours a day outside, we have been somewhat bothered by the lack of fresh air. To get acclimatized after so many years in the tropics took a long time. This summer, we did not even want to swim in the frigid waters in the Northern Hemisphere until we were urged to do so by our visiting friends of Viking blood.... Another reason we were hesitant, was the numerous stinging jellyfish. Funny thing, because they are actually quite innocent compared to the crocodiles and sharks, deadly jellyfish and sea snakes that we encountered on our voyage...
When NOR SIGLAR crossed under the Svinesund Bridge between Sweden and Norway last fall, we were determined not to get caught up in the whirlwind of everyday life again. But this was easier said than done... Not many days had passed before we owned a cell phone, and our callendar filled up. This kind of transition has been the most difficult for us.
Of course, we don't mind some luxury again, a bit more comfort than we were used to on the boat. For example, a loooong, warm shower every morning. It is just heavenly to be able to splurge with water again! And a spacious, well-equipped kitchen with countertops and cupboards, where you do not have to dig down deep to find what you need, that is really great. There is no doubt that moving from a boat to a house is much easier than the other way around.

(3) Did the circumnavigation live up to your expectations? Did you get any surprises?

To be honest, we never dreamed it would be so much work. Keeping the boat in safe condition for offshore sailing took considerably more time than expected. Much of it was very cumbersome. It was very difficult to provision without a car, only the help of a small dinghy. Before we left, we thought we would have plenty of leisure time. We looked forward to leave all stress behind, to relax and to idle about on long, white beaches, listening to the whisper of the wind in the palm trees.... Wrong! It was actually quite rare that we took time to sunbathe on the beach. After a while, we didn't really want to either. We got more than enough sun and heat anyway. We enjoyed the shade much more, which, after all, was much healthier.
The bureaucracy took a lot of our time as well. Upon arrival in foreign countries, numerous formalities had to be taken care of. Since we take a great interest in different cultures and its people, every time NOR SIGLAR arrived in a new place, our days were actively spent discovering new sites and getting to know the locals. Naturally, we wanted to absorb as much as possible. As fascinating as it was, it turned out to be stressful in a way. So much for the resolve of leaving all stress behind when we cast off in Vancouver... We also thought we would be absolutely free, so that we could do exactly what we wanted whenever we wanted to. No clocks, no deadlines, no important customers, no moody boss. Wrong again! On the ocean there are other factors to be dealt with. There, the elements dictate and actions have to be planned according to those powers. The biggest surprise, however, was that it was the people we met during the voyage that became focus number one, not the circumnavigation itself.

(4) How is it possible to live so close together all the time? Did you quarrel a lot?

Not really. We are actually very much alike. Our goals are similar, and we seldom disagree. Team play is important for the success of an offshore cruising adventure. We feel we are a good team. We are usually on the same wavelength and move at the same pace. It is also important to be good friends, to like each other's company and to be able to tolerate being in close quarters day after day. We got accustomed to this during the six years we spent together on the boat, prior to severing our ties to the mainland. This is how we discovered that we don't need "space", this buzzword that is so popular in our modern, western society today.
Still, to live in such close proximity can be taxing at times. Out on the open ocean one cannot take a walk if one is upset about something or wants to be alone. In such a case, it is especially important to speak up right away. To keep things bottled up inside, will only lead to frustration and arguments. Conflicts just have to be solved as they happen. It is no good sweeping them under the rug. So, we did our utmost to take care of the problems as they arose, and never went to sleep on bad terms.
Being optimist by nature and blessed with a good sense of humor helps a lot. Fortunately, none of us are moody or negative, although Martin tends to think that I can be negative at times, or at least thinks that I worry needlessly. In my own defense I chose to call this quality "being realistic"! If we were to quarrel, this topic would be the reason, more often than not. For example: I was constantly concerned about safety, so when Martin refused to wear the safety harness, reef, or be as careful as I liked to be, things could turn quite unpleasant for a while.
In general, however, everything went quite smoothly. One reason might be because there was always so much to do, both onboard as well as ashore. There was never much time for idleness which is "the root of all evil", as they say. We were constantly occupied with chores, planning and logistics, provisioning and hundreds of little things that is usually done efficiently and quickly at home, but takes a lot of time without a car or a washing machine. There was neither time nor energy to quarrel much.
Like most, we also have our particular struggles. And of course like everyone else, we too disagree at times - especially when it comes to memory - what we recall or perceive from conversations, etc. Therefore, we attempted to minimize those areas of conflict. One solution was to record weather forecasts on tape. Ended were the discussions on whether he said "wind from northeast, force 4" or "southwest, force 6"!
A well-kept logbook has cleared up several disputes. If ever there was a disagreement regarding distance, weather or wind, we always found the answer in the log. Example: "What was the distance between Marquesas and Tuamotus again?" Anne: "At least 500 nautical miles!". Martin: "Nonsense! It was only 300!" Or: "Have you ever been in a storm?" Anne: "Oh yes! At least a small one! A couple of times". Martin: "Never! We only had gales!". Sometimes one shouldn't think we had been on the same voyage...But then we consulted that wonderful logbook, and there it was, black on white, very reliable and quite indispensable. A two-piece encyclopedia and Lonely Planets from countries we have visited were also invaluable sources of reference for dealing with disagreements.
Finally, one must not forget the most important: To be KIND to each other, not to mention to spoil one another a bit. Nobody else is there to do it for you out there. I, for one, love to linger in bed in the morning and am always treated to a cup of coffee by Martin, while he, who is a morning person, does last night's dishes (properly stacked in a pail in the cockpit overnight). I, on the other hand, let him relax with the paper or a good book while I prepare dinner in the evening. For us First Mates, the day is not over even when the anchor hits bottom....
A bit of "good old fashioned female cunning" is not a bad idea either. As ashore, it is just a smart at sea to give in and "let him win" from time to time. Or agree that an idea, that perhaps wasn't really his in the first place, was if fact just that - just to please him.It could make life much easier!

(5) What about equality onboard?

There has never been any question as to who is the Captain of NOR SIGLAR. Martin is the one who was "born with salt water in his veins". It was his dream to circumnavigate the world. Growing up on the south coast of Norway, he has the art of sailing in his blood and reacts automatically to most situations onboard. My own knowledge has been obtained as an adult; so sailing does not come naturally to me. I need to think before I know what to do. Besides, being seasick the first few days out renders me quite useless for a while. Then, I have more than enough looking after the watches and myself, and find it difficult to navigate or do any kind of acrobatics on deck.
At sea, the ideal situation would be if both partners could handle boat and equipment independent of eachother and equally as well, and share the responsibilities of navigation and meal preparation. However, it is a well-known fact that such a situation is very rare. Therefore, it is very important to find the right balance, to be patient, flexible and understanding. Perhaps, it sounds paradoxical, but I found that it was easier at first, when I was still a beginner. After gaining experience, I developed my own ideas and opinions, which turned into discussions and disagreements. The same observation is relevant when it comes to having crew onboard. It is much easier and simpler to work with someone with little or no knowledge, a person that can be trained, than someone who perceives him/herself as a world champion!
After a while, we organized ourselves in such a manner that the best-suited person performed the task he/she liked the most and was best at. After all, life is too short wasting time doing things we don't really enjoy... The following has generally been the division of tasks on board:

Martin:
Maintenance and repair of the engine, electrical installations, rig and equipment, in short, anything related to keeping the boat in a seaworthy and safe condition.

This division of tasks does not exclude the fact that we are perfectly able to cover each other's area of expertise. Martin does not particularly like to cook, but he still has to do it when I am seasick. Otherwise, we have separated our galley duties so that Martin is responsible for breakfast, I prepare dinner, and both take turns making lunch. Martin always does the dishes. "I love it", he claims. "It is so simple and relaxing! It puts my mind in neutral"!

6) Do you find that we in the Western civilization have "lost" something that others have retained?

Caring for one another has to be one area. A paradox, since our entire social system is based on care. In several countries we visited, it was the family members that cared for each other. It was not the State's responsibility. When we told our Muslim friends in Morocco, a family of ten members who live in two small rooms with a tiny kitchen, how we have arranged our system of caring for the old, they reacted strongly. They found it incomprehensible that we place our elders in what they perceive as "institutions". We don't necessarily consider their system superior. However, we do feel that we in our Western civilization have too little time to cultivate close relationships and the ability to care for one another. The race and stress involved in doing all that is expected of us in our so called modern society takes far too much of our valuable time and energy.
The natives of the islands in the South Pacific pity us in the Western World, who find it necessary to stress and work so hard in order to be able to afford all the things we feel are necessary to make life comfortable. They are satisfied with a quiet and uncomplicated life. For us, quite thought provoking, although much of their lifestyle is a result of living in a favourable climate where food is easy to grow and obtain. In the Northern Hemisphere, it isn't that simple. One can't just go outside and harvest fresh fruit and vegetables for the meal of the day.

7) In what way has this adventure affected you? Are you the same persons now as when you started out? What have you learned?

What we have learned from other cultures is that it is quite possible to live a much simpler life than we generally do in the West. In preparation for our offshore voyage, we sold our house and much of our belongings to be able to finance our trip. It means that we are now faced with creating a new home, wanting to keep it comparatively simple, albeit with more space than we were used to on the boat that was our one and only home for 15 years.
We have learned to appreciate the small things in life as well. One can easily manage with much less than we normally surround ourselves with. We have also gained tolerance and patience, which is necessary to successfully deal with other cultures' bureaucracy. Instead of trying to change their system one just has to accept it.
We have learned to be more humble, not to provoke. We have gained respect for people of all different backgrounds, culture and tradition. It has been educational and an eye-opener to meet all those people. We have always been met with friendliness and hospitality, wherever we have been. It is difficult for us to comprehend a world so unsettled, so full of misery, when all we have seen is kindness.
Last, but not least, we have learned to really LISTEN - to value fleeting friendships. People from around the world, be it long distance sailors or natives, always have something to give each other, regardless of how short the acquaintance might be. And one cannot forget the most important lesson of all:

TO LIVE IN THE HERE AND NOW - TO LIVE IN THE PRESENT...

How could you stand being cooped up on a small sailboat during long passages? Did you get impatient? Restless? What did you do with yourselves all that time?

Let's make one thing clear: As long as peace and tolerance are maintained onboard, no one needs feel restless or cooped up in a small sailboat. To acquire this type of atmosphere, it is important, first of all, that everyone feels safe, that there is a certain routine onboard and that every crewmember feels important and part of a team, having specific duties and responsibilities. Everyone must feel useful. Everyone must focus on creating a pleasant and positive atmosphere. It is also important to be mentally prepared for a long voyage where the main focus always is on a safe passage and safe arrival. Having mastered the many challenges of a long passage brings an enormous sense of satisfaction and pride. When it is all over, there is a great feeling of success and relief - and a wonderful sense of joy that is beyond description.
It was not difficult to pass the time. The constant motion of the boat makes you very tired, so you spend a lot of time just resting to save energy for those big challenges. The quality of sleep is poor and you have less energy than normal. Therefore, one tends to concentrate mostly on essential chores only, i.e. keeping watch, preparing meals, doing dishes, navigating, updating the logbook, radio communication and weather forecasts, fishing, reading and resting. We read a lot, particularly Lonely Planets, covering both the countries we had visited, as well as those coming up ahead. Also, we did lots of writing and listened to music. Many offshore sailors occupy themselves with crossword puzzles, play cards and computer games, do embroidery, send e-mail, etc. etc. We never did. No, ocean crossings definitely need not be boring. TOP

Yes! Looooong showers! All offshore sailors miss being able to splurge with the water. Fresh water is such a luxury when one has to ration and conserve it all the time. The fact of the matter is that one gets really tired of salt seawater after a while, regardless of how clean, clear, inviting and warm it is.
Everything gets damp, even the bedding - which is not particularly nice, not even in paradise. Another thing I missed was a washing machine. Washing sheets and towels in a small bucket is not particularly pleasant, and certainly not in our thoughts, when dreaming of all the freedom and happiness beckoning out there... So there is no doubt: You definitely miss the comforts of home after some time.
Missing family and friends is another big item. But since we have lived abroad for such a long time, and are accustomed to having our family far away, this adjustment was probably easier for us than for most cruisers. We were very lucky, though, to have many visitors from home - 65 in all, over the 9 years! It was nice to have friends and family around from time to time for closeness and support. One of the most pleasant surprises of the adventure was how quickly offshore cruisers bond and feel like a big family. Close friendships were formed in no time out there.
When we left home, we thought we would miss the newspapers and TV. Wrong! We received all the news we wanted on short wave radio, i.e. CBC, BBC, Voice of America and Radio Norway International. Soon, we got accustomed to reading old magazines that we received by mail from home or exchanged with other sailors. The fact that these were often 3-4 months old did not matter a bit!
Things we definitely did not miss: Watches, telephone and junk mail! It was wonderful to be master of your own time and to be able to control the flow of information. No more bombardment of all sorts of useless stuff. It was great to be away from the rat race, away from the strict control of a hectic agenda and pressing duties. Freedom is the greatest pleasure of this lifestyle. TOP

Not really, except when we got caught in a huge fish net in the middle of the Indian Ocean. That was decidedly the most frightening situation we ever encountered. When something so dramatic happens, you discover qualities within yourself that you never knew you had. Being all alone, far away from civilization, one only has oneself to rely on. You just have to be able to handle any situation. After the initial shock, realizing what had happened, and evaluating what had to be done, we actually felt quite calm. There was only one solution: We had to get ourselves out of the crisis, to save ourselves - all by ourselves. This situation led to the self-discovery of an inner strength unbeknownst to both of us. TOP

You have to check in with the authorities, i.e. Port Captain, Customs and Immigration, and apply for a cruising permit. Passports, ship's registration and crew lists have to be supplied, examined and stamped. The length of the cruising permit varies from country to country. Only Australia required that a visa be obtained ahead of time. That was easily arranged from Fiji. A stamp with the name of the boat, home port and registration number looks professional and impresses the bureaucrats, especially in third world countries, where it is also smart to have several copies of all the documents ready for their paper mills. All this paper work takes time. In Fiji, we spent a whole day completing over 30 documents! But there is nothing you can do about it. You just have to accept the situation, and be patient and polite. Sarcasm and condescension get you nowhere.
In some countries, the check-in/out procedures went much smoother if the girls did it. This worked particularly well in Muslim countries such as Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco, where men are known to be very "macho". We never understood why. Was it because they wanted to impress women? Or perhaps they felt uncomfortable having to deal with a member of the opposite sex? Maybe they were not accustomed to deal with women in authority and wanted to get rid of us as soon as possible? Was that why they served the females in the line-up first? Or was it simply because of good old-fashioned politeness and respect? TOP

No, not at all. In our experience, the best approach is to be humble and polite. Acting superior doesn't get you anywhere. Our own origin and lifestyle were always secondary topics. Natives reacted nearly always favourably when approached with interest in their lifestyle and culture, and in what they were doing then and there. Despite being timid, most natives love to show off their skills, i.e. weaving rugs, braiding mats and baskets, casting fish nets, collecting coconuts, and cooking in underground ovens etc. With very few exceptions, we found that natives welcomed questions and interest in their lifestyle with pleasure, especially if we wanted to learn something from them. And they really loved it when we were clumsy and just couldn't do it!
On some islands in the Pacific, it is customary upon arrival to seek permission from the Chief to visit his community. A gift is then required. This could be anything from the traditional kava root (Fiji) to cigarettes and clothing, fishhooks and rope, oil and gas. It is always a good idea to bring along goods for trading. Highly sought after items in "Paradise" are soap and washing powder, T-shirts and caps, canned - and dry goods. In return, we received local products like fruit and vegetables, fish and shellfish, pearls and shells, baskets, woodcarvings and other crafts. Children all over the world just love balloons and candy, crayons and colouring books. Seeing such items, it didn't take long before we had a long line of children after us. This could be a bit annoying at times. On the other hand, it was an excellent way to find the market and shops and whatever else they had of local attractions. Children everywhere are not only curious, but helpful as well!
Helping locals with whatever "expertise" one might have and they might need, is an excellent way to establish contact. An episode in Vanuatu, where we helped a native who had cut his finger, led to intimate encounters we would never have had as "ordinary" tourists. The same thing happened when we helped a Kuna Indian family transport a deceased man onboard Nor Siglar's deck from one island to another. Yet another example was when we distributed eyeglasses ("Gift of Eye Sight") to people in wartorn Eritrea, isolated Tonga and remote locations where the inhabitants seemed particularly poor and isolated. These experiences led to closeness, gratitude and generosity no amount of money could by. And they were, without doubt, the most valuable experiences of the entire voyage.
Normally, we made an effort to learn a few words in the local language - just enough to be able to greet people, say thank you, yes and no, and to count to 100, which also came in handy at the market. If the language weren't too difficult, we would memorize phrases of common courtesy and politeness as well. This always received a positive response and resulted in much more than curious and suspicious looks. Naturally, it is important to be polite, dress modestly and show respect for local customs. We never went ashore in swimsuits, an inconsiderate habit among tourists around the world. In Muslim countries one must dress with utmost care; women in loose pants, sarongs or skirts. Legs and shoulders should always be covered. Such clothing is more comfortable in hot climates than shorts and T-shirts anyway. Men could use shorts and short sleeve shirts.
Most important of all is to show respect - and to LISTEN. We can all learn something from each other. Our lifestyle in the west isn't necessarily the best in the world. And even though one might think so and might have lots to teach, to "show and tell", one must never forget to be humble - and never forget that you are the guest - in their domain. TOP

Books on offshore sailing and circumnavigation (Rundø, Sorgenfri, Liv, Per Tangvald, Tristan Jones, the Purdys, Copelands, Smeetons, etc. and many old classics - Joshua Slocum's "Spray", Eric Hiscock, etc. etc.
Cruising Guides and Port Handbooks, i.e. Imray Lawrey, Rod Heikel, Chris Doyle, etc. etc.
Articles and Travel Logs written by offshore cruisers to membership magazines of various sailing associations, i.e.
- "Currents" (Bluewater Cruising Association, British Columbia)
- "Commodore's Bulletin" (Seven Seas Cruising Association, Florida)
"Transocean", Cuxhaven, Germany.
Tourist guide books - Lonely Planet, Michelin, Blue Guide, Fodor's etc.
Sailing magazines - Yachting Monthly, Cruising World, Seilmagasinet, Seilas, etc.
Various "Cruisers' Nets" on the short wave (SSB) and ham radio where offshore cruisers exchange up-to-date information and invaluable experiences. Satellite or mobile phones cannot replace SSB offshore.
TOP

We dealt with a total of 55 currencies during the voyage. (See detailed list of these currencies and their respective values in USD). At first we used American Express travelers' cheques and credit cards. VISA was accepted everywhere except Galapagos, where they only took Master Card.
Otherwise, we always kept some US$ cash onboard. At one point, we had over US$3,000 hidden in various places; in plastic containers under the floorboards, in the sewing kit, the first aid kit, between the pages in various books and in false bottom hairspray and detergent cans. The problem was remembering where we hid it all! Therefore, we kept a list in Norwegian of the different hiding places, which was updated regularly complete with the current balance. The last few years we used automated bank machines which suddenly became available along the better part of our route - with very few exceptions (Maldives, Eritrea, Sudan). We were never robbed. TOP

Apart from English, the most useful languages were Spanish and French. Spanish in Mexico and Central America, the Canary Islands and the Balearics, French in French Polynesia, Corsica and on the North-African continent. German was seldom used - except in Turkey. The greatest language problems were encountered in Indonesia, Tonga and Thailand, Yemen and Sudan. Some islands in the Pacific had preserved both English and French from the old colonial days. In Vanuatu, where over 300 dialects are spoken, Bislama, a type of Pigeon-English, is used as the common language. TOP

We ate the local food and bought cookbooks in order to learn about unfamiliar ingredients and how to cook the local dishes. It was much simpler to adapt to the new cuisine than to stick to old habits. Besides, it was much more fun to experiment, and we never suffered from it. There are lots of exciting and very tasty foods out there. The only thing we really missed was whole grain flour for baking bread!
It is important to be able to improvise, as there are times when brands you are used to are simply not available, and one just has to make substitutions. Although most things are available in other countries, certain ingredients differ from ours. Many offshore cruisers use pressure cookers for normal cooking as well as preserving and canning. We prefer a wok, which is equally as fast, and a superb method to cook both vegetables and meat in a jiffy. Special cookbooks for boaters are also very useful. Bluewater's "Meals on Keels" have the greatest recipes!
The only cravings we experienced were at the end of long crossings when we usually missed a nice crisp salad, a juicy steak and ice cream! It goes without saying that a lot of canned food was consumed over the yearsÖ.. And to "make something from nothing" became a bit of a joke, or "a feat", shall we say, among the cruisers out there!
We always had provisions for abt. six months onboard, especially staples, yeast and cans. The water-maker provided water in case the tanks ran dry. That never actually happened, despite our meager water capacity of only 400 liters. To store food and keep it cool and fresh as long as possible, is quite a challenge. Fruit and vegetables keep best in a dark and/or well-ventilated area. This was accomplished by using mini-hammock nets under the salon ceiling. Tomatoes and perishable fruits and vegetables were wrapped individually in newspaper. It was important to examine them regularly and discard anything spoiled. Eggs will keep for over a month if they have not been refrigerated beforehand, and if one turns them every 3-4 days.
We always made sure to provision well in ports with reasonable prices and well-stocked supermarkets, (Panama, Thailand, Singapore and Malaysia). Otherwise, we were always on the lookout for treasured items, and hoarded them when available. "Get it when you see it!" is a typical motto of the offshore cruiser. TOP

This we found out from sailors who had been offshore, from articles, books and slideshows. One of the things we learnt on our own, though, was that it is not necessary to bring "everything" from home. This is a common mistake among beginners. Apart from certain specialized sailing gear and spare parts, most things can be obtained on the way. Good food you can get everywhere, and much cheaper than at home! TOP

No, we did not have weapons onboard. If you do, you have to be prepared to use them. You have to be willing to kill. And we don't think we would be able to do that. Besides, neither one of us has any training in the use of firearms. The intruder(s) would, no doubt, be better at that than us. We firmly believe that weapons can turn a relatively minor or innocent incident, i.e. break-in or petty theft, normally attempted by poor natives or fishermen - not hardcore criminals - into a deadly tragedy. Using firearms as self-defense rather than a baseball bat or something like that, one risks losing one's life in a situation, where one could most likely be left unhurt, or with "only" a broken bone or two, cuts and scrapes. That is why we only had some baseball bats onboard, pepper spray by the companionway and in the forward cabin where we slept, and a strong floodlight to blind unwanted guests with near the cockpit by the companionway. Another thing to consider: What if you should happen to kill somebody in foreign waters far away from home, what are the consequences? Self-defense or not - it is not easy to get away in a hurry in a small sailboat at a speed of 5-6 knots, at best. As soon as the locals find out, they would more than likely come after you - in large numbers. And if/when you are caught, and end up in the slammer in some third world country, the question of treatment and prospects of release is another matter...
Whenever we felt unsafe, as in pirate-infested waters and war torn areas, we sailed in flotillas together with other boats. It worked. As a matter of fact, the only piracy attacks we heard of involved boats that sailed alone. TOP

In the beginning, we embarked on a modest exercise program. It was, however, very difficult to maintain a routine. It is a real challenge to perform a set programme on a training surface which is in constant motion. But we did manage to do some stretching. Even with the limited confinement of a sailboat, we could always find room for that. To keep fit while cruising is not easy. We are happy that we brought our full size folding bikes, which we used as long as it was not too hot. Otherwise we walked a lot and went for hikes whenever possible. TOP

Rust, rust and more rust! On clothing, clothespins, wire hangers, locks and keys, even the stainless steel, etc. And that we became so forgetful! Another reason why "dreamers" should get out there the sooner (read: younger) the better!
One of the biggest drawbacks of offshore cruising is having to leave new friends behind and places we have come to love, after far too short a time. Still, those fleeting friendships are worth their weight in gold. TOP

Unfortunately, yes. The daily "Sundowner", which is the highlight of the day for most cruisers, became too much for some. There was always a good reason to celebrate something or other: Arrival in a new country, crossing the equator, speed records, the fastest and/or longest passage, birthdays and anniversaries, meeting up with "long lost" friends, etc., etc. Most people were happy to socialize with just a beer or a glass of wine at "Happy Hour". But those who were not satisfied until the bottle was empty developed problems. Some "lost it" and stayed put in a "paradise" somewhere, unable to continue. TOP

Although it is not necessary to be all that young, youth does have its advantage. Still, the majority of cruisers out there seem to be middle-aged couples. But only a small portion circumnavigates. This may be their intention when they first set out. However, many fall in love with a certain area, find their own little paradise, and stay put for years. We saw several examples of this, i.e. Rio Dulce in Guatemala, Sea of Cortez in Mexico, Trinidad, the Bahamas and the Caribbean. But age limit? In the Red Sea we met a 79-year old Englishman who was on the homestretch of his circumnavigation. TOP

Yes, we should have started earlier! The younger the better. TOP

As far as the actual sailing is concerned, to be careful and conservative, not to use too much canvas, to reef early and to use the preventer in following winds. It is important to check, double check and triple check your position, never to take any chances when approaching new harbours through reefs and shallows, and never to make landfall after dark.
Most of our mistakes/mishaps took place during our first- and last years of cruising, probably due to lack of experience in the beginning, and being blasè or overconfident at the end.
It is wise to listen to other sailors' information and experience, to be receptive and open to new ideas and advice. In the final analysis, though, you have to make your own decisions and live by them. After all, when at sea, you only have yourself and your boat to rely on. TOP

DO IT! JUST DO IT! The sooner the better! Don't wait for the boat or yourself to be completely ready. Then you'll never get away. Much can be carried out on the way. Don't forget the back alleys, bring modest gifts and practical things for the poor in isolated, far away places. Take along picture books from home to show natives when communication is difficult. Pictures are worth a thousand words and a super substitute, when language is a problem.
Most important: Lend a helping hand and show interest and respect for foreign life styles and cultures. TOP

To quote Harald Riiber in his article, "Odyssey 2000" (Seilas 6/01): "To ensure a successful voyage (the answer is both simple and complicated) - one has to have a perfect wife!". Allow me to turn this around and insist that a "perfect husband" is equally as important! Had there been more of them out there, you would find many more women happily cruising offshore! TOP

27) Did you sail most of the time or did you have to use the engine a lot?
How often did you anchor out as opposed to staying at a dock?
How much electricity did you use?

During the total distance logged of abt. 56,000 nautical miles (2.6 times around the world at equator), abt. 20,000 (35%) were motoring or motor-sailing. The voyage was accomplished in 3285 days. Approximately 3/4 of the time (70%) was spent in port, 15% at sea, and the rest (15%) on land trips and travels home, i.e. we spent 5,5 times as long in harbours and ashore than at sea, as is evident from the following statistics:

a) Engine Use: Motoring and/or motor-sailing: 4233 hours (176 days) 82%
Charging of batteries: 928 hours (39 days) 18%
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Total engine use over 9 years: 5161 hours (215 days) 100%
Total engine use per year:       570 hours ( 24 days)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

b) Diesel Consumption: 9300 liters (1.8 liters per hour)
The cheapest diesel was obtained in Algeria (US$0.03/liter) and in Indonesia (US$0.10/liter)

c) Electricity Consumption:
We had 2x170 amp. deep cycle batteries onboard, one starter battery and one house battery for cabin lights, radar, refrigeration, communications and navigational equipment. Our electricity consumption was approx. 80-90 amp. hours per day. Four solar panels produced approx. 80 amp. hours per day (based on 8-10 hours of sunshine per day). When we were under sail and used both the radar and navigation lights while the fridge was on, the solar panels were not able to produce sufficient electricity. Then we had to run the engine to recharge the house battery. TOP

  28) Did you have the boat "on the hard" many times during the circumnavigation?

Yes, Nor Siglar was "on the hard" in boat yards six times; four due to winter and/or hurricane/cyclone seasons, maintenance and bottom painting, once to have the bottom painted and once for repairs. The boat yards were in the following countries:

1)	USA (Ft. Lauderdale, Fla.)	Preparations for Atlantic crossing	Dec. '92 - Feb.'93
2)	Norway (Halden) (*)	Bottom painting	May '94
3)	Turkey (Marmaris) (*)	Winter/ Bottom painting	Oct. '95 - Apr. '96
4)	Trinidad (*)	Hurricane season/Bottom painting	April - Dec. '97
5)	Fiji (*)	Cyclone season/Bottom painting	Oct. '98 - June '99
6)	Singapore	Repairs	Oct. '99
	(*) Trips home (by air).

With the exception of Norway, leaving the boat in these places for extended periods was never a problem. The local authorities simply placed the boat "in bond", a formality that just involved signing a few documents at an insignificant sum of money. Upon proof of valid insurance, the marina took over the responsibility of the boat in our absence. In Norway, however, since we wished to leave the boat for more than six months, we were forced to import it and pay Value Added Tax, duty and an engine fee based on HP. Should we decide to leave again in a few years for warmer climes, we will not get a refund. TOP

  29) Did you have any other long layovers? Why?

1)	Guatemala (Rio Dulce) (*)	Hurricane Season	July - Oct. '92
2)	Portugal (Vilamoura) (*)	Trip home	Sept. - Dec. '94
3)	Spain (Sevilla)	Winter	Dec. '94 - April '95
4)	Morocco (Mohammedia)	Illness	Nov. '96 - Feb. '97
	(*) Trip home by air

TOP

30) Did you experience any anchoring problems?

Out of a total of 316 anchorages, where we were anchored anywhere from 24 hours to a maximum of two weeks, we only dragged seven times. Only two of these incidents could be considered critical to the safety of the boat.
We carried three anchors onboard: Northill (25 kg), Bruce (15 kg) and Danforth (15 kg). Bruce was our favorite anchor. We carried 50 meters of 5/8" chain and always paid out at least five times the depth. We rarely used more than one anchor at a time. The few times we used two, we got into deep trouble. The reason for this is that during a weather change, the wind has a tendency to shift 180º in no time, while increasing considerably in strength. If it was necessary to weigh anchor in a hurry and move, it was practically impossible to grapple with two anchors simultaneously and quickly without any complications. We experienced this a couple of times in the Mediterranean, where anchorages can be quite untenable.
It is a good idea to paint the anchors white. This way, they can easily be seen on the bottom through clear water - in Indonesia on 20 meters depth! TOP

The voyage was duly documented and produced a total of 24 log books of 100 sheets each, i.e. 2400 sheets or 4800 pages! At first we used "Reed's Log Book for Yachts". But this became far too costly. So, after having completed five of those, we created our own. Layout and columns were as follows:

Left-hand page:

Date: | From: | To: [ Time | Course | Latitude | Longitude | Log | Wind | Speed | Sea Condition | Barometer | Temperature | Distance (log/GPS) | Speed (log/GPS) | GPS "to go" | Engine Hrs.]

Right-hand page: Remarks:

On the bottom of each page, we kept a summary of daily and running totals of engine hours, distance and average speed according to both log and GPS. The person coming off watch updated the log, every four hours during the day and every three hours at night, unless conditions demanded it be done more often. In addition to the "Ship's Log", we kept a "Maintenance Log" in which all equipment was catalogued and the time and type of Maintenance and Repairs noted. The voyage resulted in over 5000 slides and at least as many regular photos. TOP

In general, the route was planned and carried out according to information obtained from Jimmy Cornell's "World Cruising Routes", a very useful reference book which contains valuable descriptions regarding ocean routes, distances and the season when the best weather conditions may be expected in the respective areas. This way, we tried to stay within the "safe" latitudes, always striving to be "at the right place at the right time". We were always careful to coordinate our route with optimal weather patterns, i.e. the Pacific (April/May-October) and the Caribbean (November-May). Accordingly, we managed to avoid dramatic weather systems of extreme winds, strong currents and scary wave heights that some circumnavigators' experience.
Apart from some nasty tropical squalls, i.e. brief, torrential rain showers accompanied by winds gusting to storm force strength, we never had winds stronger than 40-45 knots for any length of time. In fact, wind strength of more than 30-35 knots was rare. Consequently, we are unable to brag about having survived numerous storms "with waves as high as buildings"! Gales, yes. Perhaps 4 or 5 of 2-3 days' duration. These were encountered on the West Coast of Nicaragua and Costa Rica, down the coast of Portugal, across the Atlantic a couple of times and up the Red Sea.
Speaking of waves. It is not easy to estimate wave heights. We don't believe we have ever experienced waves higher than 5 meters. They may have seemed higher at times, and other sailors may have thought differently. Have we been lucky? Or could it be that offshore sailors have a tendency to exaggerate?
But at least we can brag about having experienced a hurricane! 70-80 knots, no less! Admittedly, we were safely moored at a dock. However, the fierce winds came up very suddenly and took us completely by surprise. Fortunately, the hurricane only lasted a couple of hours. But this was bad enough, as Martin had just had a back operation. So it was up to me to get the "macho" Muslim men of Morocco, who are not particularly fond of taking orders from "the weaker sex", to assist me with the mooring lines. Fortunately, we escaped with only a scare and a bent stanchion.
Luckily, we did not experience any great disasters on our voyage. We didn't break the mast. We didn't break any rigging. We never capsized. We were, however, always careful to take precautions before the ocean crossings, i.e. secured the stove, lashed down batteries and anchors and put hinges and locks on all hatches and floor boards. Pad eyes were mounted in the cockpit and jack lines stretched along the deck for easy clip-on of safety harnesses. The railing has been under water a few times, but never the boom. The boat has never healed over more than 45°. At times, we took some big seas over the stern and into the cockpit, however never so much that it was ever alarming. We never took on water into the boat through the hull, nor had any serious leakage. We never fell overboard. We never used our life jackets but were always careful to wear our safety harnesses and hooked on during the night and during rough weather. TOP

The best sailing conditions we ever experienced were in the eastern trade winds of the Caribbean, the northwest trade winds along the coast of Portugal, inside the coral reefs of Tonga and in the protected waters of Turkey. The worst and most frustrating sailing conditions we encountered were going north in the Red Sea (northerlies) and in the many notorious wind patterns of the Mediterranean; Levanter and Mistral, Scirocco and Meltemi. The "feast or famine" conditions made sailing there far from ideal. For us, the most stressful leg was the English Channel, with its strong currents and poor visibility, fast crossing ferries and continuous freighter traffic. The longest period of calm was five consecutive days in the South China Sea. TOP

The longest ocean crossings were in the Pacific from Galapagos to Hiva Oa, Marquesas (24 days/2920 nautical miles) and the Atlantic from Gran Canaria to Trinidad (23.5 days and 2982 nautical miles). The fastest passage (6 days/6.3 knot avg.) was from Vancouver to San Francisco (north westerlies) and in the Dutch Antilles (east trade winds), where we actually surfed between the ABC Islands at a speed of 10-12 knots. The 24-hour record was 158 nautical miles - 6.6-knot average. Average speed and distance per 24 hours of the entire circumnavigation: 4.7 knots and 111 nautical miles. TOP

Close contact with foreign cultures, especially the primitive ones.
Crossing the Equator and completing the actual circumnavigation.
Spectacular sunsets and mile long beaches of California and Mexico
Panama and Corinthian Canals.
Paradisiacal anchorages.
Back alleys.
Snorkeling among colorful coral fish and spectacular underwater flora.
Trading with natives, especially the fabulous woodcarvers of Solomon Islands.
To help poor people in isolated areas with eyeglasses ("Gift of Eye Sight"), first aid and whatever "expertise" we could supply
The "San Blas experience", where we helped a Kuna Indian family transport a deceased man on Nor Siglar's deck from one island to another.
Martin's back operation in Morocco, which resulted in the "adoption" of a Muslim family who took such good care of us there.
The closeness between fellow offshore cruisers.
Ham radio contacts and the maritime mobile nets.
Mail parcels from home (pre e-mail era).
Meeting sailors around the world who recognized us from our articles in the Norwegian sailing magazine, "Seilas".

TOP

Seasickness.
Collision with a whale.
Injured crew during a gale in the Gulf of Papagayo (Nicaragua).
Near grounding/disaster dragging anchor in Honduras and Greece.
Seeking refuge and being under 24 hour armed guards surveillance in Algeria.
Frequent back problems (both) and the Skipper's disk operation in Morocco.
Running aground in Fiji and Indonesia.
Break-ins in Thailand and Gibraltar as well as an aborted attempt in Algeria.
Electrolysis.
Unsafe, war-torn countries.
Pirate infested waters.
Entangled in a huge commercial fishnet in the middle of the Indian Ocean.

TOP

The most dangerous situation we experienced was when we got entangled in a huge fish net in the Indian Ocean. As far as the groundings were concerned; the first one (Fiji) was harmless, while the second one (Indonesia), could have ended in a disaster. But only for Nor Siglar - we could have waded safely ashore!
The break-ins were also harmless. We caught both thieves in the act, so they didn't have time to take anything. Apart from these incidents, we only had two dinghy ropes stolen. The first time, the dinghy was moored in a fishing harbour in Bonifacio (Corsica). The second time was on a remote beach in Vanuatu. In Guatemala (Livingston), we lost a pair of old boat shoes and a pail of garbage which we had left in the cockpit overnight. The outboard engine is the most popular and frequently stolen item of an offshore sailor. Therefore, we decorated it, as well as the dinghy, with brightly coloured drawings, so that they were both easily identifiable. And it worked! Nobody wanted them. TOP

• San Blas, Panama (The Kuna Indian culture and unique experiences).
• Honduras and Guatemala (The Maya Indian culture and interesting experiences).
• Belize (Snorkeling in the most fantastic underwater paradise)
• Turkey (The friendly Turks, spectacular historic sights and anchorages)
• Tonga (The culture, song, music and wonderful anchorages)
• French Polynesia (The culture, the beauty of the people, the song, music and joie de vivre, the lagoons, atolls and spectacular anchorages).
• Vanuatu and Solomon Islands (The primitive culture, the superb wood carvers and unique experiences).
  

In general, the places we enjoyed the most where those where we stayed the longest. Staying in the same place for a longer period of time gives the natives a chance to get used to you. In this way, it is possible to make closer contacts with the locals and to form more personal bonds. This is also how one gets the most unique experiences. We have found this to be the case, particularly in remote islands with primitive culture and lifestyle.
So it is the people we met along the way that made the biggest impression on us, not the nature. There are many gorgeous places in the world. To experience genuine human encounters, however, is rare. Therefore, when we consider which places we'd like to go back to, it is always to those where we made the closest contact with the locals and where we had the most heartwarming experiences. TOP

• Colon and Panama City, Panama (Theft and crime, violence and poverty).
• Egypt (The Suez Canal, unprofessional pilots, perpetual begging and bribery, aggressive males).
• Some Greek Islands (Too many tourists, aggressive salesmen and charter boats).
• Most of the Eastern Caribbean Islands - " - - " - - " - - " - - " - - " - - " - - " - - " -

TOP

• Bonifacio, Corsica
• Cala Coticcio, Sardinia
• Cala Covas, Menorca
• Olu Deniz and Tomb Bay, Turkey.
• Girne (Kyrenia), North Cyprus.
• Navpaktos, Greece.
• Rendezvous Cay, Belize.
• Halfmoon Cay, Honduras.
• The Coral Islands of San Blas.
• The Ha'apai Group of islands in the Middle Kingdom of Tonga.
• Opunohe Bay, Moorea and numerous anchorages in Bora Bora.
• Marovo Lagoon, The Solomon Islands.
• Al Mukhalla, Yemen.
• Massawa, Eritrea (the most dramatic - war torn)
• Suakin, Sudan (very dramatic - ancient ruins)
• Khor Shinab, Sudan.

TOP

• Norway 12.0 months
• Trinidad 9.0 months (incl. lay-up/trip home)
• Fiji 9.0 months (incl. lay-up/trip home)
• Turkey 8.0 months (incl. lay-up/trip home)
• Greece 4.5 months
• Spain 4.0 months
• Mexico 3.5 months
• Portugal 3.5 months (incl. trip home)
• Morocco 3.0 months

TOP

Martin, who "was born with salt water in his veins" and grew up sailing on the south coast of Norway, felt quite comfortable with his navigational and sailing skills. What he did lack, however, was experience with diesel engines, modern electronic equipment and everything to do with electricity (AC/DC)! He only took a weekend course in diesel mechanics. Otherwise he learned most of what was needed through technical books and got help from other sailors whenever necessary.
I, on the other hand, had never set foot on a sailboat until I was 38, and knew absolutely nothing about sailing. So I took a bunch of courses - everything from Basic Boating to Seamanship Sail, Advanced Piloting and Ham Radio. Six years before leaving, we moved onboard the boat, first of all to find out if I could become accustomed to life onboard, secondly, to save money and get the boat ready for offshore - and thirdly, most important of all - to find out whether we would be able to live in such close quarters 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.
We both took courses in first aid, radar and celestial navigation. Also, we did a short trial run offshore (VICE 90), to practice reefing and boat handling and to test our "sea legs". Otherwise we read all the literature we could get our hands on with respect to offshore cruising. The most useful articles were written by offshore sailors in the membership publications of various sailing organizations, i.e. Currents and the SSCA Bulletin. When we were underway, we got the information we needed from the "Bibles" of offshore sailors, i.e. cruising guides and hand books for the various cruising destinations, ex. Chris Doyle in the Caribbean, Charlie's Charts in the Pacific, Rod Heikel in the Mediterranean and Imray Lawry just about everywhere else. It was also useful to have tourist guide books onboard, i.e. Lonely Planet, Michelin, Blue Guide, Fodor etc.
In hindsight, we find that most of our mistakes were committed during the first and the last year of our adventure. Obviously, in the beginning, we lacked experience. We wanted to sail fast and were perhaps somewhat foolhardy, often using too much sail, reefing too late and took off whenever we felt like it, without paying proper attention to the weather forecasts. "Surely, it couldn't be that bad?" After a few mishaps (accidental gybe, injured crew, a near grounding, a nasty fall), we became much more cautious, reefed earlier and waited for favourable weather whenever possible. When friends wanted to visit, they would have to come and join us where we were. After having learned the hard way, battling conditions at sea to meet a flight deadline, we no longer would risk the safety of the boat, nor ourselves to make a rendezvous in a preplanned place. Normally, it was easier for visitors to reach us by land than it was for us by sea! Schedules and deadlines are the worst enemies of the offshore sailor.
There is no doubt that the hardships endured during the final year of cruising were partially caused by having become somewhat blasé. Running aground in Fiji and Indonesia are classic examples of this phenomenon. Like it or not, after many years out there, one starts to suffer from the "been there, done that, got the T-shirt!"-syndrome. TOP

Loyal supporters ashore looked after our bills, and saw to it that our mail was forwarded at regular intervals, roughly once every 2-3 months. The fact that letters might be several months old by the time we received them was not important. We just loved to receive news from home, even if it was old! At first, we used American Express and various marinas as our forwarding address. Otherwise, friends brought the mail when they came to visit. We seldom used Poste Restante, as the post office tends to return mail to sender after only two weeks. That was too risky, since it is very difficult to estimate exact time of arrival way in advance. Plans may change, as can travel routes, depending on weather conditions. During nine years, we only lost one mail parcel. That was in Guatemala.
During the last couple of years, with the on-set of e-mail, the "good old" mail parcels came to an abrupt end. And that was really too bad. The joy one experiences when receiving mail from home at sea, far exceeds the instant excitement one feels when opening the inbox on the screen. Naturally, e-mail is both fast and convenient, so many sailors had it installed on their boats. However, we resisted that temptation, prepared our messages on floppies onboard, and used Internet Cafés ashore instead. We did not want to join the gang of internet cruisers who spend hours on end down below in the lovely hard-to-reach anchorages of paradise…..
We also communicated with family and friends by ham radio and/or telephone ashore. Weather forecasts and invaluable information between offshore sailors was exchanged on the various "cruisers' nets", both on Single Side Band and ham radio. Otherwise, we kept abreast with the world news on CBC, BBC and Voice of America. Cell phones are not useful on the high seas and cannot replace the SSB. TOP

Most offshore sailors are healthy, and so are we, except for occasional back problems, which have bothered both of us since long before we went offshore. After suffering a slipped disk, Martin had an operation in Morocco. I put my back out five times, making me practically immobile a couple of weeks each time - in Panama, Norway, Greece, Galapagos, and the Maldives. Fortunately, we never became incapacitated by our bad backs at the same time!

Other afflictions:
Martin: Tick (Costa Rica), hookworms (Guatemala),
urinary infection (Tunisia), infected wart/nail (Galapagos),
cuts and scrapes, the biggest one to the head (Indian Ocean).
Anne: Seasickness, eye infections, cuts and scrapes, menopause.
Crew: Deep cut on the leg (Costa Rica - during gale).

We were both bothered by skin infections, a constant problem in the tropics, where seemingly minor cuts and scrapes, contracted while snorkeling on coral reefs, become tender and infected. Thorough disinfecting and a good antibiotic cream would clear it up. To treat severe infections, we kept antibiotics and penicillin onboard. Tylenol 3 and Paralgin Forte were the strongest painkillers we ever needed.
We both suffered food poisoning once; Martin from a piece of veal in a restaurant in Costa Rica, me from a bad egg in the Solomon Islands. Apart from hookworms, which Martin contracted in the Guatemalan jungle, allegedly from walking barefoot, our stomachs fared quite well.
Normally, we ate the local food and fresh produce and drank the water unless the locals themselves didn't do it. If we were unsure of the water quality, we added chlorine to it. We never bought bottled water, nor did we boil it, contrary to most offshore cruisers. And actually, it seemed as though our resistance was that much stronger for it. Our feeling and experience is that when traveling so slowly by sailboat, there is plenty of time to get acclimatized. That way one gradually gets used to the local strains of bacteria and has ample opportunity to build up immunity and resistance.
With respect to malaria, we took chloroquin tablets in areas of high occurrence (Solomon Islands and Indonesia). Otherwise, we used mosquito repellant, covered our arms and legs as much as possible, and tried to stay indoors at dusk and dawn, when the malaria mosquito is the most active. We used mosquito netting on all hatch openings and burnt mosquito spirals in the cockpit at night. The sun is enemy number one of the offshore sailor. We were careful to keep our heads covered, used sunscreen liberally, and stayed in the shade whenever possible. And that was not at all difficult in the heat of the tropics! We had a well stocked first aid kit onboard, and managed, in general, to cure ourselves. Our first aid equipment was kept in a locker in the bulkhead behind the settee in the main salon. That way, with the patient on the sofa, we had easy access to whatever was needed. When you only have yourself to rely on, you learn to become quite imaginative with experience and as time goes by. When Martin came down with a urinary infection (which we at first thought was a kidney stone attack) underway from Tunisia to Gibraltar, and he couldn't keep the painkillers down, he tried them as suppositories instead. It worked! Fortunately, we never became seriously ill - no broken bones, no dangerous complications. Naturally, we hurt ourselves from time to time. But the bruises, and scrapes were never so bad that we couldn't take care of them ourselves. At times we did have some dental problems, though. Martin lost half a molar in Mexico, and had a crown put on in Guatemala - a very professional and very cheap job. I lost an old filling in Egypt and had a temporary crown fitted in Israel - a very professional and very expensive job! We had dental cement onboard for such emergencies. It was a temporary solution and was only meant to last until we reached a dentist. Menopause, believe it or not, had a positive effect on me: I didn't get as seasick as I used to! In fact, it nearly disappeared! TOP

Weevils and mice, cockroaches and malaria mosquitoes.
Crocodiles and deadly jellyfish, sharks and sea snakes.
Thieves and pirates
Runaways and refugees.

Weevils can be a real problem in the tropics. It is, however, possible to avoid them by storing dry goods (flour, rice, pasta, etc.) in airtight plastic containers with screw-top lids and a couple of bay leaves. The cockroach population was kept to a minimum by using cockroach hotels and bottle caps filled with a mixture of borax, icing sugar and condensed milk. In places known for crocodiles and deadly jellyfish, sharks or sea snakes, we simply did not swim. We managed to escape pirates, mainly by sailing together in flotillas with other boats.
We did not carry any weapons onboard. Instead, we had pepper spray and a strong floodlight by the companionway ready to spray and blind uninvited guests. We also had knives and a couple of baseball bats readily available for self-defense. Fortunately, we never had to use any of this material. To prevent break-ins, we looked after each other's boats and took turns going ashore in places with a bad reputation. We always locked the boat. But this would make no difference to professional thieves. It is not very difficult to break into a boat. Fortunately, we never encountered any refugees or runaways. TOP

This topic is covered in great detail elsewhere on our web.  TOP

47) What about insurance? How did you insure your boat and yourself?

This topic is covered in great detail elsewhere on our web, with links to web sites and our contact's email address.    48) What kind of books did you have onboard?

This topic is covered in great detail elsewhere on our web.

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