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In our next and final article, we will summarize some of the most interesting statistics and experiences of our circumnavigation. We will also cover some of the planning logistics, timing and costs involved in undertaking such a voyage, in the manner we did, in the hope that this will encourage others to do the same.
When choosing our sailboat, we looked at practical points like size, strength, comfort, standing and running rigging, keel and rudder configuration, sailing ability and, of course, logical safety factors like cockpit draining, size of winches, hatches and windows etc. We did not understand or bother to understand mysteries like STIX (Stability index X) or ISO/DIS 12217-2, AVS (Angle of vanishing stability). We did not wish to take a doctor's degree in dynamics or physics to be able to sail a boat around the world, and after having done so, don't think that is necessary either. After having looked at a variety of sailboats, we finally chose a modern production boat constructed of hand laid fiberglass for the following reasons: In contrast to the traditional full keeled, heavy displacement designs, we thought a lighter displacement, high performance cruiser-racer would give us superior sailing ability, higher speed and greater comfort. The size would be easy for a middle-aged couple to handle, while providing ample interior space and stowage, and still be large enough for a sea kindly motion. We liked the conventional and strong standing rigging of masthead rig with upper and lower shrouds and forward and aft inner shrouds. We did not want the fractional rig with its swept back spreaders because this rig is difficult to tune and far from ideal for main sail trim and chafe during downwind sailing. The fractional rig with its larger main sail is also more difficult to sail off the wind because the big main sail exerts its centre of effort a larger distance away from the yachts centre line. The masthead rig is simple, robust, has lighter loadings and will withstand all manner of abuse. This was later justified while pulling the boat off a reef, partly by heeling her over by the spinnaker halyard. We also liked the deck-stepped mast since we felt this would be safer if we were to be rolled or dismasted. This type of mast would not break open the cabin top, something which could happen with a keel-stepped mast. Another advantage with a keel-stepped mast is dry bilges, i.e. lots of storage underneath the floorboards. We liked the rudder configuration protected and strengthened by a skeg. This feature definitely saved us from losing the rudder when we got caught in a huge, commercial fish net in the middle of the Indian Ocean. The boat was virtually hanging by the rudder while we were struggling to cut ourselves loose in an operation that lasted almost 3 hours in 25-knot winds and large seas. We thought the low, narrow windows would be safer in extreme weather as would the outward hinged hatches, and the fact that there were no engine hatches in the cockpit. On deck, the cockpit was large and comfortable, while still reasonably safe with a high bridge deck to the companionway and two large, self-draining holes. Below, the forward double V-berth, the large salon and two double cabins aft gave more than enough space for two, and occasionally one or two visitors. We preferred two smaller cabins aft rather than one large Owners' cabin, as one stern cabin could serve as storage space for our full size, folding bikes and other bulky items, while the other would be a comfortable sea berth. While working and living aboard before taking off, one of these cabins was converted into an ideal wardrobe. The two heads, one on the forward port side and one on the aft starboard side were a great plus. Regardless of tack, one of them was always at a comfortable angle. Besides, in heavy seas, it is good to have a toilet far aft for those who get seasick easily. And if one breaks, there is always a spare. Finally, it is nice to be able to offer guests their own, private toilet. The low maintenance aspect of a fiberglass boat was a major factor in the decision making process. It is a well-known fact that offshore cruisers spend a lot of time on maintenance and repair to keep their vessels seaworthy. Therefore, keeping these chores to a minimum is very important so that R & R, "Rest & Relaxation", doesn't always turn into a "Repair & Reprovisioning" ordeal instead. Who wants to spend hours on end varnishing wood and fixing hot, leaky teak decks when there are beautiful anchorages and unique cultures to be explored? In order to make NOR SIGLAR better suited and safe for offshore cruising, we made several improvements in the way of additions and modifications. The major ones are as follows:
In order to be as self contained as possible and to make life at sea as safe and comfortable as we could, we also carried a variety of other items:
By the time all of this was stowed, incl. staple provisions for several months at sea, the waterline had to be raised several inches! With respect to ground tackle, we carried 4 anchors with chain and lines:
In the beginning, we used the Northill as our main anchor and the Bruce as our stern anchor. Later, after having dragged several times, we changed to the Bruce with 55 meters of chain as our main and the Danforth as our stern anchor. We found the Bruce to be an excellent anchor, although we would have preferred it a little heavier. 20 kg would have been ideal. The Northill also provided good holding, however, the chain had a tendency to get caught up in its long pin if/when the boat turned around 360 degrees. It is interesting to note that out of a total of 300 anchorages, we dragged only 7 times. And only two of these incidents could be considered dangerous for the safety of the boat. Apart from the crowded harbours of the Mediterranean, the stern anchor was seldom used, unless we needed to keep the boat into the wind and ocean swell, i.e. Galapagos and the Marquises. With a few exceptions, we have been very satisfied with NOR SIGLAR. Sailing-wise she has performed well in all conditions, which we have encountered. The light displacement, high ratio main and fin keel make her very fast in light winds. She also sails very well high into the wind, which we have found to be extremely important. Contrary to common belief, sailing around the world is not all downwind sailing. This is wishful thinking. Time and again, we have experienced conditions with wind on the nose where it should have been on the stern, even in "so-called" trade wind areas. Gone are the days of predictable weather patterns. Weather systems all over the world are no longer what they used to be. Another positive feature with the Gib'Sea is that when the sails are properly set, the boat is well balanced with no weather helm. This is evident from the fact that rudder, shaft and steering mechanisms are still the originals after 56,000 nautical miles. Further, the boat must be well built since there is no sign of any hull or interior bulkhead movements or leaks anywhere. All doors and cupboards are still totally in place, no signs of movements or warping. After hitting a reef in Indonesia at 4 knots and having survived considerable abuse from the towing off and rescuing operation, there are no signs of the keel separating from the hull, nor damage to rig, mast or rudder. After 15 years, mostly on the water, there are no signs of blisters anywhere on the hull. We did think we had blisters at one time, however, it only turned out to be bubbles between gel coat and antifouling. This was probably due to the fact that the bottom was never sealed properly to begin with, i.e. at the time it was commissioned from factory. When the boat was 10 years old, all standing rigging was replaced, but only because our insurance company required it. The old rig showed no signs of wear and tear anywhere. As a matter of fact, the bulk of our running rigging, incl. halyards and most mooring lines, sheets and shackles are still the originals and show little sign of chafing. Only the main sheet has been replaced. This is obviously a result of having been conscientious with sheet adjustments and protection on the mooring lines. Of all the original sails, we have only had to replace the main. After 9 years of constant use and having torn it three times, we exchanged it with a Bainbridge Dacron sail with RT-design and radial cut. This has been an excellent sail. It has kept its shape very well, which is quite amazing after 38,000 nm, mostly in the tropics. This sail with its full battens gave us considerably better speed and pointing capability than our original short batten sail. With its three deep reefs, the third one only used a couple of times, we have never felt the need for a try sail. Before we left home, we had all foresails re-cut on the high side to make them suitable for ocean sailing. Safety was considered more important than speed. Therefore, we did not invest in a spinnaker either, but brought an easy-to-handle asymmetric gennaker with sock instead. Surprisingly, we only used this sail a few times, as even relatively small ocean waves would create havoc with it, rendering it ineffective and frustrating to use. We have been happy with the furling forestays and would not go offshore with hanked-on sails. Going forward to reduce sails during adverse conditions is probably the most dangerous task on a small boat at sea. The life of our sails was extended by strengthening them with tape in exposed areas and by putting Styrofoam protection on shrouds and spreaders, an effective measure in preventing chafe. The very worst drawback with NOR SIGLAR is the poor access to her engine. It is very difficult to get to the sides and back of it and the propeller shaft stuffing box. In an emergency situation, this could be a dangerous fault. Also, it is impossible to reach the fuel tank to drain and/or clean it. Further, we discovered two construction weaknesses. The beam across the cabin top that supports the mast on top of the compression post is not one solid piece or section. At one point, it started to move sideways and had to be bolted to the deck to prevent it from "slipping" further. Also, we had to strengthen the deck connection to the bulkhead under the genoa fair lead track since the deck here was "lifting" in very strong winds. Another very awkward feature is that it is almost impossible to lead wires from the batteries in the cockpit lazarette to the electric board in the main cabin and forward to the bow. There should be conducts for electric wires built into the bulkheads at the time of construction. In the galley, the counters are too low and the sinks too shallow. Not only does this design reduce storage space below, but is hard on the back. In the cockpit, one of the two lazarette hatches is too large and could be torn off in a roll-over situation. It should be strengthened with larger hinges. We added extra hinges and kept both hatches locked at sea to prevent them from flying open in rough seas. Also, the two water tanks are too large. They should be divided into several smaller compartments to lessen the noise from sloshing water and safeguard the water supply in case of leakage. The boat was delivered with electric water pumps in all cabins, heads and galley. We soon realised that this system would use far too much electricity and water and shifted to a manual foot pump in the galley and disconnected all the others. The double bunk in the aft cabin was too wide as a sea berth. In heavy weather, we had to wedge ourselves in with cushions to keep from rolling sideways. Also, it was poorly ventilated and too hot. The best place to sleep for maximum air and minimum motion was either on the salon floor or settees. EQUIPMENT WE HAVE BEEN SATISFIED WITH
EQUIPMENT WE HAVE REPLACED OR BEEN DISSATISFIED WITH Our major equipment has lasted much better than expected. But although we have been very conscientious and consistent with good maintenance, there are a few exceptions:
We have often been asked which equipment we could have done without, and which we would not have left home without.
Many cruisers had a freezer, TV/VCR, weather fax, inmarsat, autopilot, generator, huge fuel tank(s), and lately, e-mail - all gear we did not miss. As a matter of fact, the items which seemed to give people the most grief, were freezers and autopilots which caused endless frustration and delays waiting for mechanics or parts. As far as we were concerned, we enjoyed sampling the local foods, got more than enough entertainment from the adventure itself and, in general, waited for the wind, rather than firing up the engine every time the speed dropped below 5 knots. We received all the weather forecasts and cruising information we needed via our SSB/ham radio, with which we also kept in touch with other boats through various nets and, thanks to landbased amateurs, family and friends at home. Ashore, e-mail was accessible from Internet cafes or phone booths via laptop and acoustic coupler. What would we have done differently? Not much, really. We probably should have had a tricolour mast headlight. The radar could have had a shorter range. At times we wished we had known more about diesel mechanics and the mystery of electricity. However, having said that, in hindsight we probably escaped major trouble partly due to our lack of expertise. It was absolutely imperative for us to be extremely meticulous at all times, especially with lay-up of boat and engine, precisely because we had such poor knowledge of diesel mechanics! Anyway, when necessary, we were always able to get help from fellow cruisers. There are so many capable people out there who are more than willing and able to help. Some even make a living from fixing other cruisers' boats. So dreamers should be pleased to know that it is not necessary to be a world champion in everything to manage offshore. As a matter of fact, in our view, plain, ordinary horse sense will get you a long way! Looking at NOR SIGLAR today, it is hard to believe that she has covered so much ground and gone through so much. Despite having received her fair share of gales and calms, abuse and hardship from the elements offshore, she looks just as good today as when we cut the lines nine years back. So what is the secret? It can be said with one word: Maintenance! And there is no doubt: We have escaped potential trouble because the boat has been in tiptop shape all the time. The stainless steel has not been allowed to rust, the standing rig has been tuned and checked regularly, the running rig kept tight and trimmed, no banging halyards or sheets, new ideas and improvements have been implemented on the way. And we definitely credit our lack of "disasters" to the liberal use of metal polish, WD40, CRC, lube oil and duct tape! In short, NOR SIGLAR is in shape to start another tour around the world any time. There has always been a lot of writing about what makes a perfect offshore cruiser. In conclusion, we can only confirm that there is no such thing. No boat is perfect. There always seems to be a balancing act, a compromise situation involved and, of course, for most of us, a budget to consider. Therefore, one sees all kinds of boats out there. And when it comes right down to it, all kinds of crafts do manage on the high seas, something, which cannot be said for their crew. Apart from the obvious, i.e. a solid knowledge of sailing, it is the relationship between skipper and crew, which makes or breaks the dream. And the best ingredients for its success, in our opinion, is mutual respect, a healthy portion of self reliance and mental stability, lots and lots of patience and last but not least, just plain, old-fashioned kindness towards one another. Do we have any advice for the dreamers at home? Just read and learn as much as possible before taking off and equip your vessel with as much as you can afford. While there is a lot to be said for the KISS principle ("keep it simple, stupid"), the more conveniences and comfort you surround yourself with, the more you will enjoy your cruise. But don't try to get it all done before leaving home, cause then you'll never get away! A lot can be done underway. Finally, be careful, reef early and keep your harness on. Guts and a big portion of good luck would also help. And don't forget: Never leave port on a Friday!
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