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Since we left Fiji in June last year, till we reached Halden this fall, we covered 15,000 nautical miles, which is more than half way around the world in only 14 months. It was our most challenging year away, complete with two groundings, electrolysis and technical problems, break-ins and illness. All this while transiting some of the world's most pirate infested waters and war torn areas. Yet, it was filled with unique and wonderful experiences too. Christmas & New Year Millennium Celebrations in Thailand Last year's Xmas log covered our adventures up to and including Malaysia. From there, we moved on to Thailand where we spent a very cozy Christmas alone in the splendid isolation of beautiful Phang Nga Bay. New Years Eve 2000 was celebrated in total contrast on famous Patong Beach which is known for its wild New Year celebrations. It was packed with cruisers and exhilarated tourists from all over the world as well as the local Thais. Huge crowds watched the spectacular midnight fireworks and crowded the streets afterwards to take in the craziest night life you can imagine. Here, men who have become women, and vice versa danced and stripped and generally showed off their attributes, capturing tourists, young and old alike. After having witnessed all this, we truly believe Thailand to be the kinkiest sex machine in the world!
But the "Land of Smiles" also has some very interesting natural phenomena, the so-called "hongs", which means "room" in Thai. These are caves carved out by the sea and waves. They can only be reached from the water by dinghy through low tunnels that open up to the sky inside steep, jungle clad pillar-like islets. On Boxing Day, we went to explore such a "hong". Good thing that we forgot our camera onboard, because when we came back out of the cave to get it, we discovered that a local "long-tail" boat had tied up alongside Nor Siglar. We roared out and caught two robbers red handed in the act. Had we returned later, as planned, we would have been cleaned out totally. As it was, they just got away with some coins and money which we collect as souvenirs from countries we visit. Since New Years, we have put another 9,000 nautical miles (almost 17,000 km) under the keel. First across the Bay of Bengal to the Maldives, then across the Indian Ocean to Oman and Yemen on the Arabian Peninsula through the "Gate of Tears", Strait of Bab el Mandeb on the Horn of Africa into the Red Sea, past the poor and war torn countries of Eritrea and Sudan, then Egypt and the Suez Canal to Israel, where we crossed our line from June 1996 and could finally join the exclusive club of Circumnavigators. We can hardly say that this last stretch went without a hitch. First, the piracy in the Gulf of Aden off the coasts of Somalia and Yemen was a real worry. An Australian boat ahead of us was attacked and boarded by pirates. It was very dramatic. The wife was shot in the leg and the couple lost just about everything they owned except the boat. Later, two other sailboats were chased by some smaller, open boats, but were able to outrun them and escape. Naturally, we became very apprehensive. Assuming there is safety in numbers, we formed a group of 5 boats and sailed within view of each other, keeping in touch via VHF. This method obviously worked, as there were no incidents. Another real danger confronted us, however, during a dark and stormy night in the middle of the Indian Ocean, as we were booming along at 7 knots in brisk, 25-30 knot winds. I was off watch and sound asleep, when suddenly I heard Anne yell for help. I rushed up in my birthday suit to find that the boat had slowed right down and turned around 180 degrees. Sails were flapping wildly and waves came crashing into the cockpit. We were totally bewildered. And it was only when we discovered a giant, phosphorescent shape in the form of a "V" astern, that we realized what had happened. We were caught in an enormous fish net, several km. long. Nor Siglar was literally hanging by her rudder with sails up in very strong winds. Somehow we managed to get the sails down at once to ease the pressure on the rudder, since if the rudderpost broke and the rudder fell off, we would have a hole that could fill the boat with water in minutes. After a frantic 3-hour ordeal with the boat bucking and heaving and waves coming over the stern drenching us, we finally managed to cut ourselves loose. It was all I could do to hold on to the net long enough with the boat hook while Anne, lying flat on her belly over the side, hanging on for dear life, managed to cut it with a big bread knife which was tied to the end of a long broom handle. This was probably the most dangerous episode of our entire 9-year voyage.
Fortunately, the good usually outweighs the bad, and we had plenty of wonderful experiences too, especially in the northern Maldives. These islands don't cater to tourists, and where we were, on a tiny, little flat islet called Uligan, there were none except sailors. We were not allowed to visit any other islands in the area, but were made very welcome where we were. Again, Anne and I became very popular by donating old, used eyeglasses. The old folks in particular were very pleased to be able to read again. Everywhere we went people recognized us, and children showered us with beautiful shells. Uligan was a lovely, clean and peaceful place with an authentic, paradisiacal atmosphere. It was also the only place on our entire voyage where we experienced the thrill of swimming with the giant mantarays. Their 3-4 m wingspan is awesome! The Red Sea, known for its strong, northerly winds that blow almost incessantly, is considered a nightmare for sailors. However, if one allows plenty of time in order to wait for weather windows, it can be a delightful experience with its many beautiful and unique anchorages tucked behind reefs and inside so-called "marsas" and "khors", long, narrow inlets which snake themselves way into the desert. Here, one can rest safely at anchor in flat calm waters while the wind is howling in the rigging, watching the whitecaps outside and camels and Bedouins ashore going about their daily chores. Of the Red Sea countries we visited, we enjoyed Eritrea the most. Eritreans are probably the most handsome people we have seen anywhere. The younger women are simply gorgeous! You also have to admire the spirit and positive attitude of this small nation of 3 million people that has managed to fight off and actually defeat Ethiopia with its population of 60 million and military help from both the U.S. and Europe. Although Egypt was fascinating with its fabulous historical sites, we were distracted by all the begging and nagging for "baksheesh" everywhere. We particularly disliked the Suez Canal Pilots who constantly asked for cigarettes and money and would not leave the girls alone. So after this final, unpleasant experience, the poverty and the hard going up the Red Sea, it was a great relief to arrive in Israel, a small, Americanized oasis in the middle of the desert, with all the comforts of the western world. Since there are few sailboats in Israel and even fewer that have sailed around the world, they made a big fuss over us, celebrating our circumnavigation with interviews in newspapers and magazines. We even met and had a drink with Shimon Peres at a cocktail party at the Norwegian Embassy on 17. May, Norway's Independence Day! Since we had covered the Mediterranean twice before, and since we were anxious to get across both the Bay of Biscay and the North Sea before September when the fall storms get into high gear, the trip from Israel to Norway simply became like a delivery job. In Gibraltar we experienced a second break-in. Just after having checked in, we went to the bank to get some local money and when we came back to the boat, we found a young fellow hiding in the forward bunk. Again, we were lucky to catch the thief before he had time to steal anything. He is still in jail and we have been asked to return in the spring to act as witnesses at his trial. From Gibraltar, we flew down to Morocco to visit our friends who looked after us so well when I had my back operation there just before Christmas '96. We have almost "adopted" this very poor family and are supporting them with a bit of money, to ensure their children will be able to get an education. We brought a bunch of old clothing and other things wedon't need now that our circumnavigation and life onboard are almost over, and which they surely can use. It is gratifying to be able to help them a little. The children are like grandchildren to us. From Gibraltar to Norway we really lucked out with excellent sailing conditions and arrived in Halden on schedule, August 20. The yacht club had organized a grand reception for us with a big flotilla escort into the harbour, where Anne's 95-year old mother was at the head of a welcoming party which included local and national radio, TV and newspapers! To top it off, we were made life members of Halden Yacht Club. So now, after all this attention and having logged 56,000 nautical miles (twice around the world) and visited 76 countries and island colonies in 9 years, it will be nice to slow down a bit. And we are really looking forward to getting together with family and friends again, and to begin a new life as landlubbers. (*) Published in "Currents", BCA, Vancouver, B. C., January, 2001
Copyright © Anne Brevig & Martin Vennesland. www.norsiglar.com
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